Fencing
Fences built straight, set deep and chosen for how long you want them to last.
A good fence goes mostly unnoticed. A bad one leans, rattles in the wind and lets the dog out. The difference is usually in the parts you can’t see: post depth, concrete and hardware.
We recommend materials based on how long you want the fence to last and how much upkeep you want to do — then our crews build it straight and set it to stay that way.
When it’s time
- Posts lean or wobble, especially after rain or wind.
- Pickets are split, gray and brittle, or rotting at the bottom.
- Gates sag, drag on the ground or won’t latch.
- Rails are cracked or separating from the posts.
When you don’t: A few broken pickets or one leaning post don’t mean you need a new fence. If the rest is sound, we’ll repair the section and leave the rest alone.
How we do it
Walk the full fence line and check every post, not just the visible damage.
Set new posts in concrete, deep enough for Central Texas clay that swells and shrinks.
Use galvanized or stainless fasteners so the hardware outlasts the boards.
Confirm property lines and HOA rules before anything goes in the ground.
Good to know
Cedar vs. pressure-treated pine
Cedar resists rot and insects naturally, stays straighter and weathers to a soft gray. Pressure-treated pine costs less but is more likely to warp, twist and check as it dries.
Wood vs. steel posts
Galvanized steel posts last far longer than wood in the ground and resist rot entirely. Many homeowners pair steel posts with wood pickets for the look of wood and the life of steel.
Composite and vinyl
Composite and vinyl panels don’t need staining and won’t rot. They cost more up front, and some styles can sag in long spans under Texas heat.
What hail and wind do
Wind can lean entire sections or snap posts at ground level, and falling limbs break rails and pickets. Hail leaves marks on stained wood and dents in metal fencing. If storm damage is found, it may be covered depending on your policy. Your insurance company makes that decision.
Questions
Should I repair or replace my fence?
Repair if the posts are solid and the damage is limited to a few sections. Replace when posts are rotting along much of the line, or when most pickets are brittle and gray. Patching a fence that’s failing everywhere costs more in the long run, and we’ll tell you when you’ve reached that point.
Do I need to stain a new wood fence?
You don’t have to, but sealing it protects your investment. New wood should dry out for several weeks before staining. A quality semi-transparent stain slows graying, cracking and moisture damage, and it should be refreshed every few years depending on sun exposure.
Who is responsible for a shared fence with my neighbor?
That depends on where the fence sits and any agreement between neighbors or your HOA. We can scope the work and document the condition with photos, but property line questions are best confirmed with your survey. Many neighbors split the cost of a shared fence, and we’re happy to walk it with both of you.
Let’s take an honest look.
Tell us what’s going on and we’ll walk it with you. Calls and texts welcome — (512) 636-0889.
Also in this group: Gutters & Downspouts · Windows & Screens · Siding & Exterior Trim · Painting · Decks & Patios